Things to Do in Tunis

About Tunis

The first thing you notice in Tunis isn’t a sight—it’s the scent. It’s the damp, dusty smell of ancient stone in the medina’s covered alleys giving way to the sharp, sweet perfume of orange blossom water wafting from a patisserie on Avenue Habib Bourguiba. This is a city that wears its layers openly: the 13th-century Zaytuna Mosque shares a skyline with the art deco facades of the French-built Ville Nouvelle, and the clatter of a tram running past the Cathedral of St. Vincent de Paul mixes with the call to prayer echoing from a thousand-year-old minaret. You’ll get lost in the medina’s souqs—that’s the point—but the real magic happens in the transition zones. In La Goulette, the old port district, you can eat grilled fish caught that morning for 25 TND ($8) on a plastic chair by the water, then walk ten minutes to the Bardo Museum to stand beneath mosaics where Romans walked 2,000 years ago. The catch: the city’s public transport is a puzzle, taxis will try to overcharge you if you don’t insist on the meter, and in July the heat can flatten you by noon. But that just means the mint tea tastes sweeter in the shade of a courtyard in Sidi Bou Said, where the blue doors match the sea below. Come for the history that’s literally underfoot, stay for the slow, syrupy pace of life that somehow coexists with a capital city’s buzz.

Travel Tips

Transportation: Tunis operates on a mix of trams, buses, and shared taxis (louages), but the system tends to be confusing for newcomers. Your best bet is the TGM commuter train—it runs every 20 minutes from the city center to the seaside suburb of La Marsa for 1 TND ($0.30), offering views of the lake and coastline. For getting around the medina and Ville Nouvelle, the bright yellow taxis are fine if you do two things: always insist they use the meter (the ride from the medina to the Bardo should run about 5 TND / $1.60), and have small change—drivers often ‘don’t have’ change for a 20 TND note. Avoid unlicensed cabs at the airport; instead, walk to the official taxi rank. The one app that works reliably is Bolt for ride-hailing.

Money: Tunisia runs on cash, specifically on small bills. ATMs are plentiful in the Ville Nouvelle but can be sparse in the medina—withdraw what you think you’ll need plus a bit more. Cards are accepted at larger hotels and some upscale restaurants, but the souq, taxis, and most cafes are cash-only. A decent lunch at a local canteen (like a maquina) might run you 8-12 TND ($2.50-$4), while a multi-course dinner at a tourist-focused spot in Sidi Bou Said could hit 50 TND ($16). An insider trick: change a small amount of money at the airport for your taxi, then find a bank in the city center for better rates. Keep 1 and 5 TND notes separate for tips and small purchases; handing over a 20 TND note for a 3 TND coffee is a classic rookie move.

Cultural Respect: Tunis is a relaxed, modern capital, but it’s still a predominantly Muslim society where a little awareness goes a long way. Dress tends to be more conservative in the medina—covering shoulders and knees for both men and women is appreciated and will draw less attention. When visiting mosques (aside from the tourist-friendly Zaytuna), non-Muslims are usually not permitted inside the prayer halls. If you’re invited for tea—which happens more often than you’d expect—remember to accept with your right hand, and leave a little in the glass to show you’ve had enough. Haggling in the souqs is expected, but keep it good-natured; start at about half the asking price and settle somewhere in the middle. The one surefire way to cause offense is to photograph people without asking, especially women.

Food Safety: You’ll eat spectacularly well in Tunis, and getting sick is surprisingly avoidable if you follow a simple rule: eat where the locals are eating, right now. The maquina (simple, often unmarked canteens) with a line out the door at lunch are a safer bet than a quiet, fancy-looking restaurant. Street food is part of the experience—the fried brik (a thin pastry with egg and tuna) from a cart is likely fine, but make sure it’s freshly made and served hot. Tap water is technically potable but tastes heavily chlorinated; everyone drinks bottled water (1.5L costs about 0.8 TND / $0.25). For an unforgettable—and safe—meal, head to the port area of La Goulette at lunchtime. Pick a place where the fish is on ice out front, point to what you want, and they’ll grill it for you. A whole sea bass with salad and bread might cost 30 TND ($10).

When to Visit

The sweet spot for most travelers tends to be April through early June, and then again from late September through November. Daytime temperatures in these windows hover around a pleasant 22-28°C (72-82°F), nights are cool, and the summer crowds (and prices) haven’t yet arrived or have already subsided. This is when exploring the medina on foot is a joy, not a endurance test. July and August are punishing—heat regularly spikes above 35°C (95°F), and humidity from the Mediterranean makes it feel even thicker. This is when locals escape to the coast, and hotel prices in the city can actually dip a bit, but sightseeing becomes a midday ordeal. Winter (December to February) is mild but wet, with temperatures around 10-15°C (50-59°F) and frequent rain that can make the medina’s stone alleys slippery. This is the budget season: flights from Europe are cheap, and you might find hotel rates 30-40% lower than spring peaks. The one wildcard is Ramadan, whose dates shift each year. During this month, daytime life slows dramatically as most people fast, many restaurants close until sunset, and the night comes alive with festive energy. It’s a fascinating cultural experience but a challenging time for practical sightseeing. If you’re coming for the beaches, stick to the coastal suburbs like La Marsa or Gammarth in summer; if you’re here for the history and city life, spring and fall are likely your best bet.